North Shore Oahu

Probably the best-known surf spot in the world, Pipe is capable of pulling the most incredible disappearing acts. In a slack winter with lots of dribbly north swells and bad wind, the casual observer, rolling up to Ehukai Beach Park and gazing west, wouldn't have any idea it was there. (Of course the observer might wonder what the hell those hundreds of guys were all doing sitting around in the same spot surrounded by 2-foot closeouts.) Pipeline is the result of an outer reef refraction effect, which in the ideal swell direction (WNW-NW) pulls waves squarely onto its flat lava tabletop. When such a swell hits the North Shore, suddenly the wave that wasn't there comes roaring back, with all the energy and animal beauty that's drawn surfers to it for generations. In smaller, peakier northwest swells, the wave becomes a dual option, with super hollow rights funneling across toward its close neighbor, Off-The-Wall -- this is Backdoor. Classic Pipe relies on two outer reefs -- Outer Log Cabins and Third Reef -- to refract an approaching WNW-NW swell into a long wall finishing with a tapered peak that hits the inside Pipe reef about 80 yards offshore. The inside "First Reef" is mostly flat solid lava, with a couple of small caves under the takeoff zone which create a distinct boil on the wave face. Even when it's small, a WNW-NW swell at first reef Pipe is always tremendously powerful, breaking hard on the reef and holding a lot of energy in the lip, which is best avoided during wipeouts. At four feet it's an exciting little left barrel with a soft shoulder that reforms down the line and eventually closes out across one sandbar or another. At six feet it's arguably at its most dangerous, sucking brutally hard off the shallowest patch of reef and taking no prisoners on the drop. At 8-10 feet, it begins to open up a little more, with some waves breaking on another slab of the inside reef 10-15 yards outside the main zone, allowing an easier entry and time to select from a range of possible lines. At 12 feet, waves begin breaking in big foamy lumps on Second Reef, another 80 yards or so outside; Pipe itself becomes a second reform section, sometimes a steep flat wall, other times a mad, belching pit. The wave is prone to sand buildup along the inside reef's northern fringe, which occurs during north swells and over summertime; when sand is packed tight along this reef line, Pipe lefts become a hideous closeout, particularly in swells slightly north of west. Six or eight hours of a fresh big WNW-NW swell will clean the sand out and make the wave ready for use.

This is a waterman’s wave. Open-ocean power unloads on a football-sized playing field at Sunset Beach, forcing surfers to ride different equipment and approach the wave differently than they would their everyday beachbreak or even at a world-class reef. The most successful surfers at Sunset push past any fear and are willing to adjust their approach to suit the reef’s wide variability and moody nature. The Sunset arena is made up of many different spots or sections of the reef, starting with a spot not far off the beach called Val’s Reef. It’s a shifty, bowly peak that can offer up fun little waves when there’s not much swell running. The Inside Bowl is an end section directly outside Val’s Reef about 200 meters offshore and is a bit separate from the main break. It links up with the main sections on a more NNW/N swell and is an unpredictable and often violent portion of Sunset that is responsible for many casualties to board and rider. Outside of Val’s and the Inside Bowl is the West Peak, where WNW/NW swell energy (especially more westerly angled swell) rises quickly from the deep channel, refracting back in toward the portion of the wrapping swell line. Next across the reef is The Point. Wave shape and the takeoff point at the Point depends heavily on the swell direction. North to NE swells will fold crosswise over the reef fingers that extend out from the shore, breaking up the swell lines to create different takeoff spots with unpredictable, sectiony waves. More westerly swells focus better over at the West Peak/Bowl, amplifying the wave into a very powerful, bowling wedge peak. For the Point to behave like a right pointbreak, northwest/north-northwest angled swells allow the wave to bend in and run along the reef. Past the Point is an area known as Backyards, where waves break across a broad lava platform that slowly drops away offshore. Double overhead+ sets can break far off the beach, however, the best shape tends to be around head-high to a few feet overhead, where it can produce peaks with excellent rights and lefts. Sunset is also known for lots of paddling, especially the bigger it gets, as there is lots of water moving around out there. Rides can be long, so the distance to get back out is long. However, if you make good use of the Kammieland Rip running out in the channel of the bay, then getting back out to the lineup is not so bad. Bigger, more westerly angled swells will sweep the rip back toward the inside of Sunset, which getting out of there can take all your energy and tons of water on the head over shallow reef.

Rocky Point is a flat, curving reef that is about 250-yards wide and perhaps the most consistent wave on the North Shore, breaking up to double overhead-plus on nearly any winter swell direction. Rocky's somehow satisfies even its most frightening crowds with a range of waves -- from soft walls to clean barrels to crazy air sections.Rocky's is generally divided into two sections known as Rocky Rights and Rocky Lefts, but within those are several different takeoff points in different conditions. So, beginning from the west side, close to Pupukea, there's: 1. A series of peaks, mainly rights, in N-NW swells, which sometimes end in a closeout, but often hold up for nice walls and tubes; 2. A clearly defined right wall/left peak combination in W-NW swells, with the left sometimes peeling almost across the length of the reef; 3. A good-quality, walling left peak forming in W swells, outside the middle of the reef, which barrels or peels down toward the northern channel (this is the prime Rocky's wave); 4. A sharp, wedging left (and sometimes right) pitching off the northern fringe of the reef; 5. A sucky shorebreak/reform left farther inside, which is super fun for airs and small barrels.

The larger it gets, the more ferocious Haleiwa becomes, and delivering a workout capable of kicking the crap out of anyone, no matter how accomplished. The main break at Haleiwa is a rough, V-shaped reef that forms a peak 300 yards off the beach and bowls as a hard right in a series of thick sections, ending in a closeout known as Toilet Bowl. The wave is intensified by a fast-moving rip that draws water from the Avalanche reef flush-out and races right across the outer edges of Haleiwa's reef. Big WNW swells will have you constantly paddling like salmon up stream. If not, then you'll end up in the harbor channel then eventually out-to-sea. When you're on the inside, you'll often be paddling for your life to get out of harms way, as the current pulls you east toward the harbor and the waves will be swinging wider from the west. On these bigger days, you can be paddling with all your might on the inside but still going backwards toward the impact zone -- so falling on the first wave of a set can be devastating. Best bet is to finish rides all the way to the end, kick out as far as you can into the channel and ride the current back out, while still padding away from the impact zone. When the surf is small, especially on the more NW to NNW angled swells, it seems so harmless, like a fun little beach break somewhere. Smart surfers at Haleiwa learn to use the rip, not sweating the paddle out, waiting a few yards wide of the takeoff, then letting themselves be drawn into the pit for the waves they want. Not-so-smart surfers go straight to the takeoff spot, then spend the next 15 minutes paddling against the rip just to stay in position.As the swell backs away from its logical maximum -- around the triple overhead mark -- the wave loosens up and begins breaking on the shallower areas of reef, providing some deep tubes. Overhead to double overhead-plus from the WNW-NW is the wave's best size and direction -- too much north will be shadowed by Pua'ena Point, and too west will be shadowed by Avalanche and Kauai. When the surf is under head high, Haleiwa looks like a playful, semi-closed-out beachbreak; also, a left will begin to show its face from the middle of the reef, peeling back toward the harbor wall. On the inside a few yards out from the sand, a foot-high reform will give beginners something to play with as well.

At the outermost northeast corner of Haleiwa Harbor, this wave is suitable for tow-teams all the way down to keikis. When the surf is small, the inside will be cluttered with tourists going for their maiden North Shore surfs. And when the entire North Shore is stormy and maxing, the protected innards of the point provide a respite from all the outer reef mayhem, still dishing up plenty of quality, rideable surf. But when a clean, long-period northerly angled swell pushes through, that's when Pua'ena really comes to life, and big righthand walls will steamroll off the outer tip of the point towards the harbor channel.

Waimea's outer waters are very deep and clear of any outer reefs or shoals. As a result, much of the energy of long period swells is refracted away from the Bay by the flanking outer reefs at Alligators and Log Cabins, leaving Waimea in a bit of a swell void. This can make the place appear deceptively calm during the early stages of a big swell, compared to some of the other nearby spots. As the interval falls within the mid-period bands, watch for more swell energy to pour into the Bay. On big and longer period swells, Waimea will actually peak later than some of the other nearby spots of which favor the initial longer period energy. When Waimea starts to work, look for the bay to turn into a massive washing machine, where water floods in along each side of the Bay and a big rip current pulls out to sea in the center. Meanwhile, it's the big waves breaking way out off the top of the point on the northside of the bay that is the world renown spot. In contrast to all this mad aquatic activity going on further inside the bay, the actual takeoff zone can be quite mellow between sets.Rideable waves first begin to break when the surf climbs into the overhead to double overhead-plus zone on a section known as Pinballs -- a lumpy reef almost parallel with the tip of the Bay's north point that can be fun on clean NW swells with a light tradewind blowing. As the swell grows beyond 3-4 times overhead, waves begin to peak and break just inside a big boil 80 yards out past Pinballs, providing a drop, a fat shoulder and some reform shots further in. As the surf increases further, waves will starting breaking on the shallower regions of the true Waimea takeoff area -- a relatively flat lava rock ledge another 50 yards or so outside the boil that lurches abruptly from much deeper water. It's the sudden appearance of this ledge, magnifying the challenge of a late drop, that gives Waimea its characteristic semi-freefall takeoff. The ledge slopes off rapidly to the west but maintains a slight ridge out toward the north, sometimes (particularly on a more northerly angled swell) forming a takeoff spot further out known as Eddie's Peak. After a complex and exhilarating drop, the rider is faced with a flat shoulder and a mountain of whitewater, which can sometimes be pursued into the Pinballs section. Toward the beach, waves will back off and reform into an extremely powerful shorebreak, growing thicker and bigger toward the western end and sometimes showcasing a hideously tempting left barrel.Getting in and out is done through the keyhole, located close to the rocks in the northeast corner of the bay, where the shorebreak is smallest. On smaller days it's a cruise, but will start to require a little timing as it gets bigger. Trying to come in through the shorebreak toward the southern end of the bay is not recommended; several surfers have made the Bay Loop famous (the process of heading right back out to sea and around again in order to nail the keyhole exit).

As close to a hoax as any famous wave of the past 30 years, Off-The-Wall (OTW) is a single slab of reef just to the west of Backdoor and Pipeline. Off-The-Wall can have its golden moments. OTW is separated from the Backdoor reef by a narrow, deep crevice, which blocks some swells from closing out across both breaks. The OTW reef is largely flat lava, with a mound of shallower reef near its northern edge. It is best in a slightly fractured, overhead NW swell. It's a wedging right, with some smaller lefts peeling back toward Backdoor. On precisely the right wave, OTW will produce a beautiful almond-shaped barrel; many waves will be caught and ridden to closeout point by the hopeful surfer before that ideal one is found.

Backdoor was somewhat ignored during Pipeline's first golden days in the 1970s. It makes you wonder how many heaving barrels roared right off the peak before everyone kind of clicked on it. The wave relies on a slight breaking up of swell lines from the northwest (shorter to mid period swells are best, of a swell combo) and a thin channel between the Pipe reef and Off-The-Wall. The broken swell allows a tapering wall, which hits square on the shallowest part of first reef and creates an intense and very hollow, deep tube. Further inside, the reef gets shallower and actually pokes itself above the waterline here and there. Dealing properly with the finish of a ride is very important, as it will often end as a powerful closeout. This is even more the case on larger days, when the unwary surfer might come out of the tube, start paddling, and be faced with a several closeouts sections on the head over very shallow and sharp reef -- one of the North Shore's scariest moments. This is especially true upon completion on the first wave of a set, and during the more westerly swells where the current is pulling you across the impact zone of Backdoor and then inside of Pipe. If caught in this situation, either paddle in to the beach or go with the current and paddle over to the channel next to Pipe to get back out.

Located between Rocky Point and Pupukea is Gas Chambers, a fast and hollow break over shallow reef. This spot is known more for the lefts (especially on WNW to NW swells), but the rights also get good (especially on the more northerly swells). Make sure to time the sets, because paddling out on a solid day can be a nightmare, as the channels are not well defined and its super shallow in some areas.

Named after North Shore legend Jock Sutherland, Jocko's is a worthy left reef pointbreak, offering up a relatively easy takeoff compared to its higher profile North Shore counterparts and long rides. But don't be fooled into complacency -- when a big WNW-NW swell fills in, Jocko's transforms into a proper, heavy left barrel. Also, at this size, the current here is notoriously vicious -- so it pays to watch Jocko's for a few sets before paddling out in order to establish where the channel and takeoff zone are. As with Chun's, Jocko's is a favorite of surfers looking to avoid the mobs just up Kam Highway, meaning that the overall vibe in the water is a little less intense.

In winter, when the North Shore of Oahu is at its finest, Chun's Reef, while hardly empty is a good place to check out for intermediate surfers who are not ready for the extreme spots. Chun's is located between Jocko's and Waimea Bay, and offers both a left and a right that break across an elbow of oftentimes shallow and sharp reef. The left can be a bit more shouldery and forgiving, since it spills into a relatively deeper section of water. The right can be a bit faster, though shorter, but it does get very shallow (and the current turbulent) on the inside. While the Chun's lineup might not be as intense as, say Rockies, there will be plenty of locals out ripping.

A twisted man's alternative to the Pipeline-to-OTW stretch, this 200-yard strip of sand and lava reef can change your life on the right day -- that is, if you're still alive at the end. Log Cabins runs directly to the west of a large pile of rocks, known imaginatively as Rockpile, that flanks the western end of Off-The-Wall. Swell hits Logs from all directions, but much of the energy of longer period and more westerly swells are refracted away toward Pipeline by the reef of Outer Log Cabins. Meanwhile, a more northerly swell will be directed straight into the Logs and Rockpiles stretch with scary power. Wedged-up peaks hit the Logs shoreline largely at random, and the bottom varies hugely -- flat lava tabletops sit right next to pure sand, which in turn can peel away in an instant to reveal hideous rock spikes. It's this uneven bottom quality that makes Log Cabins even heavier than Pipe. Huge tubes can turn into six-lipped death bowls -- seemingly innocent sections will suddenly hit a rock ledge and double-suck, then back off and land flat, smashing everything in range. On smaller days, Logs can forget its evil nature and produce a skatepark-like wave.

About two and a half miles north of Haleiwa, Laniakea, or Lani's, is a broad, right-breaking reef where the main takeoff zone is 400 yards offshore. The reef is really just one-half of a massive lava hammerhead that flanks a small point of land (the other half makes up the left-breaking reef known as Jocko's, a quarter-mile to the northeast). Lani's is best accessed through a channel that runs out next to the point and cuts partway through the hammerhead, allowing a quick paddler to cross the thinnest point between closeouts. The more northerly angled swells are ideal, allowing swells to wrap down the line in a long, fast series of bowling sections.On most winter days, Lani's breaks up the typical smaller NW winter swells into a series of peaks that are considerably easier to ride (and often less crowded) than the higher-profile breaks past Waimea. However, when a more rare, straight N swell strikes, Laniakea reveals her true face as perhaps the North Shore's finest wave. Outrageously fast, with some super hollow sections, it requires a fine degree of judgment and a willingness to be picked off by wide-swinging sets, which are quite capable of returning the surfer to the original paddle-out point. Shallow areas on the inside reef will get you if your eyes aren't peeled. During those big N swells, a strong rip swings off the end of the break to the west; this should be avoided, especially if you're boardless.

Rockpile is located between Log Cabins and Off-The-Wall, right in front of a pile of rocks, hence the name. This spot offers a big, powerful left that is best on the more NW to WNW angled swells, and a right on the more northerly angled swells. During a more northerly angled swell, this spot is a magnet, pulling in more size than any spot around. During big swells, it's not uncommon for Kam Hwy to get washed out at this spot.

Named after veteran California surfer/shaper Dale Velzy, V-Land is like a miniature Sunset Beach, set in the big bay just beyond Backyards. At times, it can be hard to even see the break in the welter of water moving around the bay. V-land is shaded by Phantom Reef, the classic big-wave location that lies over a half-mile straight out to sea. Phantoms focuses swell into the bay, where most of it ends up connecting across to V-Land's neatly defined, shallow lava ledge. On a good day, it's a bowling barrel of fun, rippable sections -- a perfect training ground for the best North Shore groms, who take full advantage of the wave.

It used to be a haven from the North Shore crush, but during the winter months these days, the right breaking in the shadow of the colossus Turtle Bay Resort on the eastern edge of Kawela Bay is a bonafide surfing hotspot. Though considered mellow by North Shore standards, Turtle Bay West can get really good on a proper N swell, even offering up some worthy barrel sections. Meanwhile, around the peninsula and on the east side of the resort, Turtle Bay East turns on during a proper N or NW swell.