Barbados

The easternmost island in the West Indies, this pear-shaped paradise is positively pleasant in nearly every way. Everything’s 75 degrees all the time: the water, the air, the mood. There are fewer hurricanes and biting insects than other Caribbean isles. And the surf can be world-class. Barbados is not a cheap place, but with only 60 miles of coastline it’s quite easy. You could check every spot on the island in a day. And what it lacks in bathymetric variety, it makes up for in alarming consistency — especially on the east coast, which houses one of the most high-performance rights in the world, Soup Bowl.

The Waves

We’ve got a bit of everything. We’ve got the lefts and the rights. We’ve got the famous wave, Soup Bowl, but also the best waves to learn how to surf."

- Chelsea Tuach

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Chelsea
Tuach

Former Women’s CT competitor shares the love for her idyllic home isle.

What makes Barbados a special destination for surfers?

We’ve got a bit of everything. We’ve got the lefts and the rights. We’ve got the famous wave, Soup Bowl, but also the best waves to learn how to surf on. And for the more adventurous tourists, we even have these novelty spots that the locals don’t even touch. Brandon’s is the premier left on the island, but you can also go up to North Point, which can be just as fun as anywhere down the coast, with rights and lefts, and you’re guaranteed to be surfing alone. We are accepting of new people in the lineup, as well. It’s pretty mellow in the water, and the water’s always warm. Barbados is just a good experience overall, and people really enjoy surfing here.

What kind of waves can visiting surfers expect?

I’m probably biased, but I’ve traveled everywhere and Soup Bowl is the funnest wave I have ever surfed. There’s an easy channel to paddle out in, but it’s a bit more for the advanced surfer. Then we’ve got Freight Bay, which is one of the best places in the world to learn how to surf. It’s a really gentle wave to paddle into, with an easy entry/exit to the break, and you get that little added bonus of surfing with the turtles, which will come right up next to you.

What’s the vibe?

The vibe is generally welcoming. You might have one or two grumpy locals that are being greedy and aggressive, but more often than not, we are calm, we love a chat, and we are happy to share what we have here in Barbados. If you take your time, wait your turn, catch a couple waves on the shoulder and then go out to the peak, you will be welcomed and you’ll see that we’re a really lovely people. I remember when I first started traveling, things felt a bit off, like, “Why is no one being friendly and saying, hello, how are you?” I just couldn’t figure it out [laughs].

What should surfers bring?

You don’t ever need anything too big in the way of step-ups. You can usually ride your standard shortboard at Soup Bowl, or Brandon’s if it’s good enough. I also love having a 2+1 round-nose fish for the waves on the south and west coasts that are a bit smaller and not as powerful. If I’m not competing, I’m riding my fish 50% of the time. And maybe bring a mid-length, as well, just in case you wanna ride the little waves at Freights. But more often than not, a shortboard and something alternative is all you need.

When is the best time to score?

Fall is best for Soup Bowl, but it breaks throughout the year. Brandon’s and the waves on the other side of the island are better the first six months of the year, which aligns with our tourist season. I love to see other people enjoying our waves because, at the end of the day, we are a tourist destination and that's how we make our money. Everybody in Barbados understands that our livelihood is affected by the tourists, so we want them to enjoy this place so they’ll keep coming back.

What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?

Oh, so many good things! There’s fresh springs on the east coast, and on the west coast the sunset catamaran tours are amazing. E-bike tours along the coast are a good way to see a lot of the island, and for the more active people, there are Sunday morning hikes every week, and they’re different every time. Snorkel the shipwreck off Carlisle Bay. My favorite place to get drinks and dinner on the South Coast is Cocktail Kitchen in St. Lawrence Gap, which has a really nice rooftop bar, and the prices are pretty reasonable. Also, do the Mount Gay Rum Distillery Tour and test the rums, because we’re the ones that invented it! Or you could just get a rum punch and swim with the turtles, and that’s kind of all you need.

What’s your favorite local cuisine?

If I had to choose my last meal ever, it would be flying fish and macaroni pie. It is my absolute favorite. So, if I’m surfing Soup Bowl all day, I always go to Sea View for lunch. I love that place. The lady that owns it, Lily, makes the best lunches, and you can get cheap beers. It’s on top of the hill at Parlour and overlooks the whole east coast. It’s the first place I take people to eat when they visit.

Where can people learn to surf?

Barry Banfield has Barry’s Surf School and Christian Boos has Boosy’s Surf School. I really like Boosy’s, though, because he’s just the most positive, surf-stoked person you’ll ever talk to in a lineup. He can surf for eight hours straight and will be laughing and shouting people into waves the whole time. Yeah, [laughs] the Boosy experience is pretty unique.

What are some things people should be aware of when it comes to local culture and customs?

Always say good morning and goodnight, thank you and no thank you. That goes a long way. Some tourists get freaked out by pushy people trying to sell things. But if you just say, “Thank you, not today. I’m all right,” and treat them like a person instead of just shooing them away, they’ll actually disappear quicker. And their feelings won’t be hurt. Respect is a huge thing here. But we’re generally a kind people. If you need a helping hand or directions, you can ask whoever is nearest and they’ll point you in the right direction.

Any other local tips?

Cover up when going into businesses. We’re a very old, traditional place where you’ve gotta put the shirt and shoes on when heading into the supermarket. We’re an extremely safe island, but still keep your wits about you at nighttime. And look people in the eye when talking to them. I feel the safest when I’m looking confidently at someone.

Travel Essentials

Culture & customs

An independent Commonwealth country since 1966, Barbados’ unique blend of British, West African, Creole and even Indian influences is evident in everything from its cuisine, sports and government to the architecture, attire and dialect. Between the pristine, white-sand beaches on the south and west coasts and the rocky rawness of the north and east coasts, Barbados offers equal parts glam and roots. This is, after all, the home of Rihanna, but it’s also the birthplace of rum. The Bajan people are generally friendly, intelligent and absolutely brimming with class. And the accent is just lovely.

Local scene

When Butch Linden and Johnny Fain left their surfboards here in 1965, they effectively kickstarted surfing in Barbados. Local pioneers quickly picked up the baton, Bill Thomson co-created the Barbados Surfing Association in 1968, and Bajan surf culture has enjoyed a steep upward trajectory ever since. Being such a small, isolated island, Barbados doesn’t have a ton of surf shops, surf schools or surfboard shapers, but they do exist. Nevertheless, the talent level is undeniably high, evidenced by a few dozen sponsored shredders, ravenous pros like Josh Burke, and glory stories like Chelsea Tuach, the island’s first World Tour surfer. In fact, alongside Puerto Rico, Barbados probably houses the densest concentration of gifted shredders in the entire region. And when they’re all out surfing together? Forget about it. You’re getting scraps.

What to bring

If you plan on surfing Soup Bowl, and you will, you’ll want your most responsive shortboard, ideally a round-pin thruster, to deal with the bowling energy and jumpy sections, and a step-up if it’s maxing. Soup Bowl’s an easy wave to catch, but it slabs out fast, so you wanna be under it. A thicker leash isn’t a bad idea, either. Swimming in can be a nightmare due to the rip flowing out to sea. Bring your favorite stub or log, as well, because the waves on the south and west coasts are much softer, even at decent size. Many spots are dreadfully shallow, so reef booties might come in handy (or Neosporin to clean those cuts). You’re gonna need a good pair of tweezers, too. Youwill be removing urchin spines from your feet or hands at some point, it’s unavoidable. Also, with those soothing trade winds, it’s easy to forget that the equator is, like, right there, so pack some sunscreen. One thing you don’t wanna bring, however, is camo. It’s illegal for any civilian, even a child, to wear or carry anything with a camouflage pattern.

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How to get there

Fly into Grantley Adams International Airport (BGI) and immediately rent a car or Mini Moke (hiring a taxi is expensive and taking the bus is a saga). Get something just big enough for your boards, but the smaller the better, because some of the coastal roads are dangerously narrow. Hug the left, give way to traffic approaching from the right at roundabouts. Don’t text and drive. Cruise safe and show up anywhere on the island within an hour.

Downtime

Go to Oistins Fish Market. Watch a cricket match. Do a distillery tour. Visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Enjoy a flying fish cutter with Bajan pepper sauce and an ice-cold Banks while jamming out to steel drums from a calypso band at any of the 1,500 rum shops. Then dance the remaining hours away with all the other irie islanders at the ever-bustling Harbour Lights… You could do all this in a week, still surf your face off, and never once feel rushed. Jus’ breezin’…

Quick Tips

Travel Time

LAX: 13 hours, 30 minutes (3h, 52m layover)

JFK: 7 hours, 10 minutes (1h 1m layover)

Heathrow: 8 hours, 56 minutes

SYD: 19 hours, 41 minutes

Connectivity

Barbados has the highest broadband Internet speed in the Caribbean, an average download speed of 56Mbps with a network penetration rate over 80%. Most major mobile phone carriers will work, but the accrued roaming charges can be expensive. Many people prefer to communicate via WhatsApp.

Currency

Barbados Dollar. Exchange rate at time of writing: $1 USD = $2 BBD

Avg. cost of...

Cup of coffee: $8.30 BBD ($4.15 USD)

Lunch: $33 BBD ($16 USD)

Beer: $5 BDS ($2.50 USD)

Hotel room: $630 BBD ($315 USD)

Visa Requirements

All visitors to Barbados must have a passport and valid return ticket to be allowed entry. No visa needed.

Drinking water quality

The Barbados Water Authority is the sole provider of reliable water service in Barbados, and the water supply is safe and refreshing to drink.

Hazards

Sea urchins and shallow coral reefs. Barracuda, Portuguese man-of-war, and the occasional dengue-carrying mosquito. Strong rips and sometimes dangerous surf on the east coast. People have died surfing here.

Cash, card, crypto

U.S. dollars are accepted island-wide, but the two-to-one Barbadian dollar goes a bit further in the smaller shops and carts. Most businesses accept major credit cards, and you’re never too far from an ATM.