Southwest France

Southwest France is known for, among other things, fine wine, delicious food and centuries of history and architecture. Couple all that with lime-green beachbreak barrels spitting close enough to the shore to drench avid beachgoers, and you’ve got the potential for the surf trip of a lifetime.

The Waves

There are many different waves, from the heavy barrels of Hossegor to the small barrels of Cul Nus. If you just want to cruise on a fun, long pointbreak, you can go to the Basque Country. There’s something for everyone.

- Joan Duru

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Southwest France According to...

Southwest France According to...

Joan
Duru

French pro and former CT competitor offers insight on his home stretch.

What makes Southwest France a special destination for surfers?

If you come during the good season, you can surf every day. There are many different waves, from the heavy barrels of Hossegor to the small barrels of Culs Nuls. You can get rippable lefts in the afternoon with the north wind, and if you just want to cruise on a fun, long pointbreak, you can go to the Basque Country. There’s something for everyone.

What’s the vibe?

It’s changed a lot since COVID-19. Many people from big towns and other countries have come to live near Hossegor. Real estate has become so expensive that locals can no longer buy homes in the area. There are many people surfing now, and it’s hard to find empty waves, but nobody is really aggressive. There isn’t really any localism. Maybe that’s why things have gotten out of control [laughs]!

What should surfers bring?

Bring a fun shortboard and a good barrel board. I love riding a quad — perfect for paddling and holds well in the tube.

When is the best time to score?

October is the best time, but there are also little windows in the middle of a freezing winter. That being said, it’s hard to find those windows. You never know what you’re going to get in France. The forecast could be perfect, but there could be fog. Or no banks. Or the swell’s too W and it’s closed out.

What else is there to do when you’re not surfing?

The food is so good here — and the wine, of course. Landes Forest is amazing. It’s still wild, there’s a small lake, and the trail is incredible. I love to go mountain biking there. In fact, just bring your bike instead of your surfboard. Or, you can go to Spain for tapas and txuleta.

What’s your favorite local cuisine?

Duck breast, but you have to know how to cook it properly.

Where can people learn to surf?

The best place to learn how to surf is with the Cloarec brothers. They’re former pro surfers based in Penon.

Travel Essentials

Bidart France

Culture & customs

Nestled in the corner left pocket of the country – nearly 500 miles from Paris and at the apex of the Bay of Biscay bordering Spain’s Basque Country – Southwest France is a slice of well-traveled paradise where you’ll find all your stereotypical French scenes: fur-coated cigarette-smoking matrons walking tiny poodles, golden hour café culture and unabashed nudity on white-sand beaches. You’ll also find a thriving surf culture. Downtown Hossegor is a certified surf city, with a range of shops from the Quiksilver megastore to smaller boutiques. The French are a proud people; and that translates to the water, too, so visitors must respect the locals who put in the time at their beloved, thumping beachbreaks.

Local scene

Unless you’re prepared to walk (the beach extends about 130 miles north of Hossegor, but with few access points) or don some serious rubber (winter water temps hover in the mid to high 40s), you’ll be dealing with other surfers, just like in any other country with good surf. The crowds you’ll come across in season (June-October) are a wildly eclectic mix, from traveling pros to talented locals to feral, six-to-a-van, parking lot dwellers. Sometimes it seems like everyone in Europe has ended up in Southwest France, particularly in August when the lineups are littered with all manners of surf craft and ability level. However, if you can avoid the all-night party scene that sucks in so many and hit the surf at dawn, you could be sharing silky barrels with just a few other hearty souls. 

What to bring

Select any weapon from your quiver: longboards (Biarritz is best for those), shortboards (on its day, Hossegor offers some of the best beachbreak barrels in the world), step-ups and even guns (Guethary offers legit, open-ocean, Hawaiian-style power) – all boards are welcome, somewhere. If you need gear, you can find pretty much anything you’ll need in Biarritz or Hossegor’s many surf shops. France ain’t cheap, though.

Also: Our amazing partners over at FCS have curated a collection of fine products for your next surf trip. Check it here.

How to get there

Biarritz Airport will drop you right in the thick of it, Bordeaux Airport’s a bit further north. Renting a car is your best bet for exploring the whole zone and hunting for uncrowded peaks. Cars are a little different in Europe – typically on the smaller side – so get a vehicle with a little more legroom that can accommodate your boards and gear. That will also allow you to take cat naps between sessions, or even spend the night at a spot you’ve clicked with. Southwest France has several beachside camping options.

Downtime

This is France, one of the cultural centers of the world. Wining, dining and romance are all on the docket. Indulge in the art scene, watch live music, lean into the magical cafe culture of the area. If your wine hangover isn't too bad in the morning, rent a kayak and paddle around the lake just northeast of Hossegor. Also, it can get maddeningly flat for weeks on end, so if you’re looking for an adrenaline rush, head to one of the bridges over the river and spend the day working on your half-gainers.

Quick Tips

Travel Time

LAX: 12 hrs

JFK: 8 hrs

Heathrow: 1.5 hrs

SYD: 35 hrs+

Connectivity

Cell reception is pretty prevalent in most of Europe’s well-trodden locations. And so is WiFi at hotels, coffee shops, etc. But, if you wanna be fully connected all the time, you’ll probably want to talk with your provider before taking off, so that you can adjust your plan accordingly.

Currency

Euro. At the time of writing, $1 USD = 0.96 EUR

Avg. cost of...

Cup of coffee: $3.50

Lunch: $15.00

Beer: $6.00

Hotel room: $200.00

Visa Requirements

No payment necessary for a visit three months or less.

Drinking water quality

Tap water is considered safe to drink in France.

Hazards

Board-snapping beachbreaks, distracting nudity on the beach, passionate European locals, wine and cheese food comas.

Cash, card, crypto

Most major credit cards are widely accepted in France. A little bit of cash, as always, is a good idea to have on you, too. ATMs are easy to find.