About Honolulu Surf Travel
“Every day of the year where the water is 76, day and night, and the waves roll high, I take my sled, without runners, and coast down the face of the big waves that roll in at Waikiki,” Duke Kahanamoku once famously proclaimed.
Considered the birthplace of surfing, the waves of Honolulu and Waikiki have been ridden and enjoyed for centuries. From the ancient Hawaiian kings and queens, to Duke and the early Waikiki beach boys, and then on into the modern era with pioneer likes John Kelly, Wally Froiseth and George Downing and so many other icons and legends, including Gerry Lopez, who grew up surfing Town.
Today, Honolulu and Waikiki would be unrecognizable to Duke, who passed away in 1968. Today high-rise hotels and apartment buildings come all the way down to the water’s edge. It’s a busy, bustling city with a population of over 1.4 million people. Thankfully, for the most part, the surf remains the same. The reefs and beaches continue to be the area’s most valuable asset…and you can thank surfing for that.
Ala Moana Bowls:
Inarguably Town’s most coveted — and famous — high performance wave. Ala Moana has a clearly formed and obvious lineup — it’s right where all those big dudes on big boards are sitting. Ala Mo’, as it’s often referred to, is a long left, with a few different tube sections and a range of takeoff spots, but it’s most focused (and perfect) when a solid South swell detonates on the outside bowl section. The seabed next to reef was dredged for Ala Wai Harbor, thus the man-made interference bends swell and refracts it. And even though really big sets are still referred to as “Pole” sets, the pole that once indicated such incoming bombs is now gone.
The Ala Moana Bowls left can hold solid size and breaks off toward the harbor channel, but Bowls also offers a shorter right on smaller days that will usually end as a closeout section on the very shallow inside reef.
As you head west across Magic Island into Ala Moana Park, there are numerous quirky, crowded and hard to catch reefbreaks, including Tennis Courts, Big Rights and Kewalo Basin. All of these waves work best on the same swell as Waikiki, though tide and local knowledge definitely comes into play here.
Waikiki Beach:
Waikiki Beach consists of numerous spots that offer rights and lefts, as well as world-renowned crowds. But it’s Waikiki — one of the birthplaces of recreational surfing and a pillar in the quintessential Hawaiian surfing experience. Surf Waikiki and you’ll share (literally) waves with people from all over the world, many of which are just learning how to surf. While Waikiki conjures images of small, soft and rolling waves, when there’s a solid Southern Hemi swell running, many of its breaks turn on enough to keep the beginners on the inside, leaving the better outside rollers for more experienced surfers.
Diamond Head:
There are several different spots off Diamond Head that offer rights and lefts — the best are Lighthouse and Cliffs. These reef breaks are located a good distance off the point and pick up anything from the Southern Hemisphere, as well as easterly trade swell. However, these breaks will also be the first to blowout with the easterly trade winds, which then opens up the lineup to wind and kite surfers. Cliffs is probably the most popular of the Diamond Head breaks, offering both rights and lefts that offer smooth take-offs and mellower rides. Lighthouse (which, of course, is located right in front of Diamond Head Light) is a bit more high-performance than Cliffs, and also shallower. On larger swells, cross currents can be a factor, especially at Cliffs.
Surf Hazards
Besides sunburned tourists and pissed locals at Ala Moana, the surf scene is generally pretty benign around Oahu’s south shore. When a big south swell is running sweeping currents can be an issue. Diamond Head is much more exposed to winds and currents, and having a keen ability navigate the reefs will save your feet a lot of agonies and maybe spare you from a staph infection too. Also, Diamond Head isn’t immune from visits by sharks, so stay alert.
Surf Pollution
Yes, Honolulu is a little slice of paradise, but it also suffers from the same ills as most major metropolitan surf zones. After periods of heavy rain, it’s recommended to avoid going in the water for 24 to 72 hours. Honolulu’s Ala Wai Canal has been problematic in the past. In 2006, 48 million gallons of raw sewage was discharged into the canal after heavy rains. Additionally, the Ala Wai Harbor has had issues with boats dumping their waste in the harbor. For surfers at Ala Moana Bowls, this can be especially problematic as the paddle-out is right through the harbor. Most days the water quality around Honolulu and Waikiki is good and find for surfing and swimming, just make sure and keep an eye on posted signage as the water is regularly tested and monitored. The Oahu Chapter of the Surfrider Foundation re-started its Blue Water Task Force water quality testing efforts in 2015 and keeps an eye on key beaches around the island.
Best Surf Seasons in Honolulu
1) Summer
(June-August) Summertime is primetime for Honolulu and Waikiki. South swells light up the area’s myriad reefs, providing long walls. Conditions can range from overhead barrels at spots like Ala Moana to beautiful rollers, perfect for longboard cruising. As Bruce Brown so famously said, “This is truly the land of the Endless Summer.”
2) Fall
(September-November) Late-season south swells keep the surf fun and playful throughout most of the fall. This is an especially good time to sneak around Diamond Head and see what you can find. Combo swells can make for really fun surf out there this time of year and the winds may be a bit calmer.
3) Spring
(March-May) Things start to pick up in the spring on the South Shore. Early season south swells begin to make an appearance making for some fun days of surf.
4) Winter
(December-February) There’s not a whole lot of action around Town in the winter months. In the winter it’s an amazing place to escape the big waves of the North Shore and slow things down a little bit, but because Honolulu and Waikiki only work on a south swell, don’t expect much more than wind swell pumps and minor, longboard-style waves.
Directions to Honolulu
Fly directly into the Honolulu International Airport and you’re pretty much there. Car rentals are available right at the airport, making it super easy to hop off a plane, pick up a convertible Mustang and head straight to Town. It’s about a 20-minute drive from the airport to the heart of Waikiki (depending on traffic). Hawaii’s public transportation system is also really easy to use…and it’s free.
Surf Reading
Surfing: A Royal Sport by Jack London
Roughing It by Mark Twain
Robert Lewis Stevenson In Hawaii
Barbarian Days by William Finnegan