Swami’s:
When the Eiffel Tower was first constructed, Parisians hoped the ugly thing would be torn down directly after the International Exposition of 1889. Today, it’s the most distinguishable architecture in Europe. In the way that communities come to embrace out-of-place constructions, the turbaned Self-Realization Fellowship, built for Swami Paramahansa Yogananda in 1937 in Encinitas, has come to represent the reef point it overlooks. The right point, a rarity in San Diego, seems to cap off the series of happy-go-lucky reefbreaks south of it before the beachbreaks of Encinitas begin. The wave needs a decent swell to show a hint of its potential, but it’s generally the daily hub of North County surfing during the winter months. To get to Swami’s, use the Encinitas Boulevard exit off of the I5 freeway coming from the north, and the Birmingham exit from the south. Then, head west to PCH, and look for the gold domes atop the Fellowship’s walls.
The attitude in the car park reflects that of most of northern San Diego: laid back. Many of the surfers here have been surfing the spot for their entire surfing lives, and a fairly tight brotherhood exists among those who have put in the time. That is not to say that there is an unfriendly vibe in the water; it’s just that the same group of guys seem to be in position each time a good set rolls through. Most of these regulars are riding boards more than 8 feet in length, so they have one hell of an advantage over those of us on 6’3″s.
On crowded days, even the most skilled shortboarders find themselves battling for leftovers on the inside, while the established crew has its way on the outside. This is not necessarily a bad thing, being that the smaller waves are usually steeper and offer a couple of bowl sections. Pretty much any wave at Swami’s is a good wave, and a rider is guaranteed at least one or two sections to hit even on the worst of days. The drop is generally mellow, and then the wave races across a shallow ledge on the inside until it eventually hits a huge channel. The channel is actually so large that no other waves break for about a quarter of a mile to the south. Depending on the tide, the wave breaks with varying degrees of steepness. Obviously, lower tides make for the speediest waves. There is a short left that can be surfed if you are getting so shut down on the right that you need something just to keep the blood flowing. If this is the case, paddle deeper than the rest of the pack and sneak off to the left. Swami’s can handle as big a swell as the Pacific cares to throw its way, and gets better as the size increases.
The parking lot fills up quickly on the weekends or during any real swell. It is possible to park alongside the highway just south of the entrance to Swami’s and walk back to the stairway in front of the car park. The people milling around in the lot can be almost as interesting as the action in the water. Encinitas has also been dubbed one of the healthiest cities in California, so don’t be surprised to see some fine-looking women jogging past on the highway.
Pipes:
Connecting the dots between Cardiff Reef and Swami’s is a stretch of erratic reef known as the San Elijo, or Cardiff, Campgrounds. Although most of these waves are too fickle and/or protected to mention here, Pipes, at the north end of the campground, offers a consistent left-hander that’s frequented by the funboard crew. Despite the prevalence of fiberglass, foam and beer bellies, Pipes does offer a rippable wall for the aggro-minded. When it’s winter with a low tide and moderate swell running, think of Pipes.
Cardiff:
This is one of the few beaches around at which you’ll see moms, dads, sons and daughters all hanging out in and out of the water, together. The reef is a long, right point that breaks over a flat, grass-covered reef for about a quarter of a mile. The wave is usually slow and a little mushy, but with real low tides and big winter swells, the south peak at Cardiff can be a real smoker. Otherwise, break out the log and join the party.
The state park coalition has built a pay lot right in front of the point, but free parking is available just outside the gates along the highway. The wave is easy to find, and can be checked by driving either north or south along Highway 101. The nearest freeway turnoff is at Manchester. The road that runs parallel to the tracks, just east of PCH, offers a great view of both Cardiff Reef and those spots adjacent to it. One of San Diego’s hottest surfers owns a house along this stretch of asphalt, and there’s no wonder why once you’ve had a glimpse of the view from Machado’s front window.
A short paddle north from Cardiff reef, you’ll find another pack of surfers in the water, probably sitting shoulder to shoulder in a tight knot. This is Suckouts. It’s a very different wave than its partner just 50 yards away. As waves roll slowly and gently into Cardiff Reef, the same swell will produce dredging tubes that “suck out” quickly and spit those keen enough to make the drop out into a small channel before the wave closes out into the backside of the peak at Cardiff. This wave also prefers a lower tide, but the drop gets more and more difficult as the water level decreases. The left off of this same peak can offer multiple opportunities to crank turns off its steep face. It is not as hollow as the right, but is always a welcome relief from haggling for the favored tube on the other side of the peak. The crowd at Suckouts is as different from Cardiff Reef as is the wave. Once 10 guys are on the peak, it is hardly worth paddling out, as there just won’t be enough waves to go around.
The San Elijo Lagoon drains into the ocean and straight into the lineup at Suckouts, and has been blamed for a number of sicknesses contracted by local surfers. Ear infections are common during winter months when the rivermouth is opened, as are cases of severe intestinal problems. It is best to avoid these spots after heavy rains, and especially when warning signs are posted on the beach. A quick look at the stagnant water in the estuary should convince even the most daring of surfers not to enter the surf during the polluted periods. Even the ducks swimming in this cess-pit look a bit apprehensive as they enter the water.
Ponto:
For years, this stretch of sand in South Carlsbad was indecipherable from the miles of other average beachbreak in the area. But, as some spots fade into obscurity over the years, others rise to center stage. Ponto — thought to have derived from a mispronunciation of the Spanish punto, or “point” — is one case where the Army Corps of Engineers have done some good for the area’s surfers. A few years ago, when they decided that the Batiquitos Lagoon needed to be opened up on a permanent basis, they constructed two large jetties that, since then, have proven to be a virtual sandbar factory. The word’s definitely caught on over time, however, so a newly formed bank doesn’t stay secret for long.
Ponto breaks year-round, with rights funneling off the south jetty during the winter and lefts reeling off the north jetty during the summer. Since the lagoon is constantly flowing, watch for a nasty rip that’ll suck you out to sea before you have time to adjust the zipper on your wetsuit. And, with every wave you catch that doesn’t morph into a worthless closeout, thank the Corps for a job well done.
George’s:
The first glimpse of ocean you get when heading north through Solana Beach comes as you exit the town and the road finds its way back down to sea level. An immediate left-hand turn will put you in the parking lot directly in front of Seaside. Another quarter-mile north along PCH, you’ll find a once-firing, but now fickle, beachbreak called George’s. When coming from the I5 freeway, use the Manchester Avenue exit and head west to the coast. Make a left onto Highway 101 and drive past Cardiff Reef. George’s is the beach break just past the Chart House restaurant.
Parking is free along the side of the highway, from which you can access the stretch of beachbreak known as George’s. Seaside has its own huge parking lot right at the break, in which the state charges a day use fee. For years, this area was nothing but a large dirt field that provided sufficient parking during even the most crowded days. In 1996, the state decided there was money to be made here and paved over the soulful gathering place. Disgruntled locals claim that the construction altered the balance of the elements that made Seaside such a great wave, and left behind yet another average spot.
Seaside Reef is predominantly a left that can suck out on the takeoff, then flatten out on the shoulder before reforming into a quick and wackable shorebreak. The right off the peak is much softer, but, with a bit of effort, can be milked along to the same inside section. On extreme low tides, the left will produce some serious tubes, and has been featured in more than a few popular surf videos. Taylor Steele’s first project, in fact, was a video called Seaside and Beyond. On days without much swell and a high tide, the inside shorebreak can be a fun option.