54th/56th Streets:
54th and 56th Street is all about the rock ‘n’ roll, and lucky for them, the crossed-up peaks offer plenty of ramps for solos.
Thanks to the string of jetties that break up the sand flow, the shape of the waves — particularly in front of these two streets — tends to be favorable for high-speed surfing. There are three main peaks that peel inside the 54th Street jetty that take both south and north swells, making it consistent surfable throughout the year, but also consistently smaller than Huntington Beach, just a couple of miles north. On the north side of the jetty, 56th Street produces zippy, sometimes world-class lefts on a south swell.
This probably won’t come as a surprise, but the crowds are heavy. A couple of locals at neighboring surf shops have reported seeing fights break out in the water in the last year. But, like any high-performance hotbed, if you prove you can fly with the best of them, chances are you’ll be given plenty of clearance.
The Wedge:
The Wedge is not a wave — it’s a 20-foot-plus meat grinder dreamed up by the devil himself. It heaves, bends and pulverizes in ways that good little waves aren’t supposed to act. The first time you swim or paddle out on a solid day, a typical thought might be, “Dang, is my chiropractor covered in my medical plan?”
The Wedge is a combination of two waves that merge together, thrusting into a titanic slingshot that breaks with enough pounds per square inch to send Stone Cold Steve Austin to the mat. It takes a south swell only, refracting the swell energy off the jetty and creating a sideways wave that slings across the beach and mates with the next wave in the set. The result is what locals fittingly call a “humping effect,” where the set waves jack, expand and release in unimaginable ways.
The key to a good Wedge wave is the right swell interval. If the interval is just right, the side wave will hit the main swell at the perfect moment, causing it to “wedge.” Too short or too long an interval and the side wave will miss hitting the main peak. It’s not uncommon to see skimboarders, spongers and bodysurfers catching the side wave before it collides, resulting in ozone-depleting aerials, monstrous tubes and insane wipeouts.
Although the Wedge is perhaps the best-known bodysurfing spot in the world, in recent years there’s been an influx of stand-up surfers. What was once a novelty for guys like Danny Kwock back in the ’80s is now serious business for pros like Strider Wasilewski, the Hobgood twins and a long list of other challengers. Part of the reason for the influx of hard goods is that the media — both surf and mainstream — have been persistent in recording all the action. Every summer, there’s guaranteed to be a center spread of some hapless fool getting launched or a front-page shot on the Los Angeles Times of the Wedge at its nastiest. Despite the increased presence of fiberglass and foam, an alternative wave is best suited to an alternative approach, which is why bodysurfers still rule the place. In fact, they literally rule the place — thanks to a serious lobbying effort by the local skull-cap crew, throughout the summer, no boards of any kind are allowed in the water except in the early morning and late evening. So if you’re feeling suicidal, or just want to watch stand-up surfers and bodyboarders play demolition derby at one of the most breathtaking natural spectacles in Southern California, it’s best to show up in the morning or late afternoon.
Newport Point:
During the El Nino season of 1998, Pipeline came to Newport Point when Hurricane Linda pumped an enormous south swell toward the West Coast. They were easily the most memorable days in years, featuring rows of spitting left-hand barrels. Drive to Newport Point right now, though, and we’re 99 percent sure you’ll find Erie-like conditions.
Newport Point is a very fickle spot, breaking only on hurricane swells from a specific direction with a specific wave-period. It’s best on swells that actually have a little east, if that makes any sense. When this rare event occurs, it’s a hellfire right-and-left barrel that tops any other break in the county. The downside to this barrel is that Newport Point is no secret. When it’s on, you’ll be sharing the wave with a crowd that makes Lowers look mellow. It’s not necessarily a territorial thing, it’s simply a frenzy for a scarce natural resource. If you are tempted to go after one of these Indonesian-style tubes, remember to spike your chariot.
36th Street:
36th is a great place for kids and average surfers in the summer. On big, closeout south swells, you can find fun peaks/left walls in that area. However, the closer you get to the pier the smaller the waves will be. The waves are more forgiving and mellower than the upper jetties. 36th can be fun with the winter’s west swells too. Plus there’s less crowd and it’s less competitive than 28th Street and Blackies. (Hint: It’s worth a check on big closeout south swells when the south wind is blowing.)
Corona Del Mar:
When planning a surf trip to Orange County, the last spot anyone thinks of is the Corona Del Mar Jetty, just south of the Newport Harbor entrance. And for a good reason: the place hardly ever breaks. But when it does, it’s second only to Newport Point on the perfect-o-meter.
Three critical elements are necessary for the Corona Del Mar Jetty to work well. First, you need a massive southwest swell — at least double overhead at Newport. Second, a prevailing offshore wind is needed to hold up the wave. Finally, a medium tide helps for length of ride.
During the El Nino year, the jetty broke during some of the pulsating hurricane swells. On southwesterly mackers, the tip of the jetty creates long a right-hand wave that is carvable while the rest of the coastline closes out. On gargantuan northwest swells, the opposite occurs on an inside finger jetty called “Foamers.” One local who spoke to us under confidentiality swears that Foamers is the best wave in Orange County when it’s on. “It’s a freak of nature,” he explained. “Few people know about it, and those who do know are on it when the right swell arrives.”