About Guanacaste Surf Travel
Covering most of the Nicoya Peninsula, from the Nicaraguan border in the north to Playa Coyote in the south, Guanacaste is drier than other parts of the country due to strong “Papagayo” winds that blow half of the year. The major destination is Tamarindo, with 50 hotels catering to surfers, eco-tourists, and beachside partiers. South-facing beachbreaks pick up smaller swells, better at mid-tide coming in; when it’s big, head to the point- and reefbreaks at lower tides. Of course the dream trip is an hour boat ride to surf Witches Rock, a long stretch of beach with a backdrop of empty wind-whipped mountains, and Ollie’s Point, a pirate’s cove holding a right pointbreak treasure that can run more than 300 yards.
Surf Crowds
Many surfers want to take that dream trip each week, so there can be 10 boats and 50 surfers squeezed in at Ollie’s in the high season, which is June, July, and December through April. Tamarindo’s beaches are packed with beginners and longboarders all year, but you can walk 10 minutes down the bay toward Playa Grande or Playa Langosta to find an empty peak.
Surf Hazards
Mosquitoes come out at dawn and dusk to aggravate the sensitive-skinned surfer. There are one or two crocs to look out for at the Tamarindo rivermouth. Beach parking lots have hosted a number of break-ins, so leave your valuables locked up at home and never leave your stuff unattended on the beach. Rivers and rain flood the roads at times, and if added to potholes and machismo, bus drivers can make it dangerous to drive.
Best Surf Seasons in Guanacaste
1) Summer
The most consistent surf comes from the southwest Pacific between late May and August. When the swell hits, wave sizes range from chest high in protected spots to double overhead at south-facing beachbreaks and points. Mornings are often offshore and glassy, and afternoon rain showers dampen the dust and turn the landscape green. This is surfer high season and all breaks are filled mostly with Americans on summer break from school or work.
2) Spring
From March to early May the cycle is complete as the winds back off and the southern Pacific comes back to life. The first infrequent major swells arrive right around the new moon, pushing surf from one to three feet overhead. Easter week in April — or what locals call “Semana Santa” — is the climax of the tourist season, so don’t expect to see any empty beaches unless you go between Negra and Nosara or south of Samara.
3) Fall
South swells come less frequently but pack more juice, arriving every other week from September to November. The rains now arrive in the morning, making for onshore winds and choppy surf, but they also thin out the lineups. Watch out for muddy roads and washed-out river crossings between Avellanas and Nosara. Prices for rooms and rentals are cheapest during these months.
4) Winter
When the rains fade, the “Papagayo” winds arrive, bringing backing offshore conditions between December and February and keeping the land rain-free. At times the winds get strong enough up north to cause cold-water upwelling, meaning there are a few days of springsuit weather for the thin skinned. The south swells are gone and only the bigger northwest swells push the waves to more than head high, so the crowds amass at the better-breaking spots. This is also the priciest time of the year to travel.